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LUMA
The entrance to LUMA, looking through to the dining room

Our story

Nothing here is quick

LUMA keeps three things at once — a coffee bar, a kitchen and a small cellar — because the day does not divide neatly into one of them.

Ground coffee dosed into a portafilter

The coffee

Five steps, none of them rushed

Every cup here passes through the same five hands-on stages, and not one of them is faster than it needs to be. The bean is chosen, the roast is watched rather than timed, the grind is set fresh for the drink in front of us, the basket is levelled by hand, and the shot runs for as long as it runs.

It is not a ceremony and we do not talk about it much. It is simply the difference between coffee that is made and coffee that is dispensed.

Beef Wellington with red wine demi-glace

The kitchen

A menu that refuses to choose a lane

Beef tartare and a cheeseburger. A Georgian chicken soup and a Thai noodle broth. Beef Wellington on the same page as souvlaki. It looks like indecision until you sit down, and then it reads as exactly what it is — a list of fifteen things worth eating, without a theory attached.

Each of them carries its own history, and we kept those histories on the menu. Ask about the Wellington and you will get the Duke; ask about the souvlaki and you will get Athenian street markets.

Roc de Lussac 2005

The cellar

Eleven bottles is enough

Seven reds from Bordeaux and Württemberg, three whites, and a Riesling Beerenauslese that ends the evening. All of it by the 150 ml glass, which is the only honest way to let someone try a 2005 Lussac-Saint-Émilion on a Tuesday.

A longer list would look more impressive and serve you worse. We would rather know eleven bottles properly than own two hundred.

From bean to cup

The five stages, in order

  1. The bean

    01

    The bean

    Everything begins with something small enough to hold in one hand.

  2. The roast

    02

    The roast

    Heat, patience, and the exact minute to stop.

  3. The grind

    03

    The grind

    Coarse enough to breathe. Fine enough to give everything up.

  4. The press

    04

    The press

    Level, even, unhurried — the part no machine can do for you.

  5. The cup

    05

    The cup

    Twenty-six seconds of amber. Then it is yours.